Kashmir Odyssey

We visited Kashmir in May this year. Long hours had been spent in planning our itinerary and finally, we zeroed in on the Kashmir valley. Our first brush with Kashmir were the snow-capped peaks of Himalayas which were visible as we started nearing the Srinagar airport. We could view a picturesque valley which was literally (going back to the definition found in our NCERT geography textbooks) surrounded by cliffs on all sides. There was a strike on the day we reached Srinagar and the city appeared quite calm and peaceful unlike what we had heard about it. Our booking was in Butt's Cleremont Houseboats and we got a wonderful welcome from our host, Mr Gulam Butt. He devoted personal attention to make our stay comfortable. Not to be missed was the visitors gallery which showcased a number of distinguished people from the media, diplomatic relations and political background who had stayed in his houseboat.

We managed to pack in the beautiful Shalimar Gardens, Chashme-Shahi and the Pari Mahal in the daytime. This was followed by a Shikara ride in the Dal Lake arranged by Mr Butt. We could watch the skyline of Srinagar in the backdrop of the setting sun which created wonderful reflections in the tranquil waters of Dal Lake. The boatman shared some insights on the society and youth of Kashmir who had grown up in a fearful environment influenced by the politics of the land. Inspite of very high education levels, majority of the youth are unemployed which has led to rising discontent and widespread public agitation. We came across a small island in the middle which was in a bad state after it suffered a terrorist attack. Dilapidated structure stood where there was a restaurant once. I was deeply touched by the poignant tales of the boatman. At night, we were treated to a sumptuous Kashmiri meal in the houseboat. It was a great way to unwind after a long and tiring day.

The very next day, after picking some momentoes (coasters, bangles) we were off to Pahalgam by noon. As we were crossing Srinagar, we passed through the historic Lal Chowk which appeared unusually quiet and peaceful unlike what we had seen and heard on television. We saw a lot of bat factories on the way to Pahalgam. Saffron farming was visible across stretches of land.

It was almost evening when we reached Pahalgam. This valley is located alongside the Lidder river, at an altitude of 2130 metres above sea level. It is also the starting point for the Amarnath trek. I was completely spell-bound watching the landscape which offered an ideal location for shooting of a romantic Hindi movie. Early next morning, we took a pony ride to Bysaran valley. The route was quite slippery owing to heavy rains and I almost clinged to the ponyman during the entire journey praying silently along the way. Bysaran was a dream valley with lush green meadows stretching across the horizon. There was hardly any human civilization except a few shepherds and a couple of tea stalls. We had some hot maggi, toast and paranthas to complement the cold weather. It was great fun just running along the slopes. The pony ride was a real adventure as we had to cross several streams and slippery terrain downhill. But we had gained some confidence while descending so we did not feel the adrenalin rush as much as we did uphill
By the time we reached our hotel, it was almost time to bid adieu to Pahalgam and proceed to Gulmarg. We just wished that next time we would keep more days for Pahalgam so that we visit the places we missed on this trip. We had to cross Srinagar and then proceed to Gulmarg as there was no direct link between Pahalgam and Gulmarg.

Gulmarg was quite a discovery. It was a treat to watch the valley unfold beautifully before your eyes. Not to be missed is the Gondola ride to Kongdoor and subsequently, Khilanmarg. The Children's Park and the Golf Course offer a great ambience to unwind. The best part were the tiny bridges built over streams which resembled the description found in fairy tales. The kind of place which makes you feel like you are in heaven!

Scores of CRPF personnel posted outside the airport and several rounds of security check before entering the airport reminded us of the political turmoil that the place is going through. Inspite of abundant beauty, the potential for tourism has been limited by the ongoing man-made conflicts. In the days after we returned from the valley, the conflict intensified and there was curfew in the valley for several weeks altogether. I thanked God for making our travel possible so that we could appreciate the beauty around us in a peaceful environment.